Mokume Gane Information & Guide
Mokume gane is an ancient metalworking technique in which layers of precious metal are alloyed together with heat and pressure, then twisted, carved, and forged to create beautiful organic patterns. My mokume patterns are made in various combinations of yellow gold, red gold, white gold, silver, and palladium. In my many years of making mokume, I’ve developed the skillset to make bands that resemble woodgrain, topographical canyons, oceanic waves, and other natural formations. I take pride in the custom nature of the work and offer the widest selection of mokume patterns that you will see at any shop.
MOKUME GANE DESIGN OPTIONS & ORDER GUIDE
STEP 1: Mokume Gane Metal Combinations and Palettes
I offer two, three, and four stock metal combinations that use 14kt Yellow Gold, 14kt Red Gold, 14kt White Gold, Sterling Silver, and Palladium. My Mokume Gane jewelry involves any combination of these five metals, as the listings will picture. Custom combinations, or upgrades like 18k gold, can be done for an additional fee.
Any piece with Sterling Silver can also receive an oxidized finish, which is a surface treatment that darkens/blackens the silver. You can freshen up the oxidation your own Mokume Gane jewelry at home and there are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of this guide.
Please note that we do not offer copper in our metal combinations. As much as we would like to offer copper in our metal palettes, copper unfortunately corrodes rapidly. A common occurrence you might’ve noticed after wearing copper jewelry is a green stain on your skin. Unfortunately, mixing copper and silver will cause a very obvious destruction of your ring and we want them to last you a lifetime!
All of my metals are responsibly sourced.
STEP 2: Mokume Gane Patterns
All mokume patterns are achieved by one of two processes; carving or forging. Guri Bori mokume requires the most involved carving, resulting in a ring that has recesses or layers that resemble topography. Other carved patterns include the woodgrain pattern, twist pattern, and the droplet pattern. Forged patterns include vortex, flow, echo, labyrinth, infinity, metamorphic, as well as others.
Please note that all mokume patterns are unique and so will vary from those pictured. The images below and in the listings are meant to give a general idea of the look of the ring, but please keep in mind that every item is individually made by hand and will inevitably vary from other rings in the same pattern category.
STEP 3: Mokume Gane Finishes
All mokume rings are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or satin finishes.
Etching provides light texture within the layers, helps with long-term wear, and really brings out the Mokume Gane pattern.
Etched rings containing silver can also have an oxidized finish that turns the silver a dark gray/black hue. Please note that although the oxidization treatment is stable and durable the black color of oxidized silver is a surface treatment and can be worn off or degraded by some chemicals. Your own body chemistry and lifestyle will affect the lifespan of the treatment.
Oxidation can always be touched up at home by dipping the ring in a diluted cup of bleach.
I only oxidize rings that have been etched as this provides protection from wear as the silver layers are recessed. In my experience this technique can last years and I am always happy to re-oxidize your ring any time.
STEP 4: Mokume Gane Profiles
We offer two profiles or fits with our rings, Low Dome and Flat. Both are slightly rounded on the inside for a comfort fit. A Flat profile will show off the pattern on the outside, while a Low Dome profile is also rounded on the outside.