Mokume Gane Information & Guide
What is Mokume Gane?
Pronounced (mow-koo-may gone-ay) Mokume gane is an ancient metalworking technique in which layers of precious metal are fused together with heat and pressure, then twisted, carved, and forged to create beautiful organic patterns. My mokume patterns are made in various combinations of yellow gold, red gold, white gold, silver, and palladium. In my many years of making mokume, I’ve developed the skillset to make bands that resemble woodgrain, topographical canyons, oceanic waves, and other natural formations. I take pride in the custom nature of the work and offer the widest selection of mokume patterns that you will see at any shop.
Made-to-order mokume gane rings
All mokume rings are available in any size, width, pattern, metal combination, and finish. Select a stone from our inventory, have us find something special, or provide your own stone for setting. All rings are made individually from start to finish and so will be completely custom. All mokume patterns are unique and so will vary slightly from those pictured.
Build your custom ring
When putting together your custom quote, we will need to know the following:
- Metal Combination/Palette
- Extra Options*
- Stone Setting*
- Stone Placement*
(* Optional features) A note about sizing : Determining your ring size is an art not a science. Finger size can fluctuate for many reasons on a daily basis due to many factors such as weather and finger shape. Once you place your deposit we will send you sizers and will ask you to wear the most comfortable one for a few days to determine which size is the best fit. Once chosen you can mail us the sizer and we will make your ring. We also offer a high quality re-sizing service and recommend having your ring re-sized with us if needed so as not to loose any integrity in your mokume-gane ring and pattern.
Our custom quote calculator
Our custom quote calculator can give you an estimate on your design. Please inquire with us directly for final quotes and design options.
STEP 1: Mokume Gane Metal Combinations and Palettes
I offer two, three, and four stock metal combinations that use 14kt Yellow Gold, 14kt Red Gold, 14kt White Gold, Sterling Silver, and Palladium. My Mokume Gane jewelry involves any combination of these five metals, as the listings will picture. Custom combinations, or upgrades like 18k gold, can be done for an additional fee.
Any piece with Sterling Silver can also receive an oxidized finish, which is a surface treatment that darkens/blackens the silver. This treatment will wear off, but you can oxidize your own Mokume Gane jewelry at home and there are instructions on how to do this at the bottom of this guide.
Please note that we do not offer copper in our metal combinations. As much as we would like to offer copper in our metal palettes, copper unfortunately corrodes rapidly. A common occurrence you might’ve noticed after wearing copper jewelry is a green stain on your skin. Unfortunately, mixing copper and silver will cause the destruction of your ring and we want them to last you a lifetime! All of my metals are responsibly sourced.
STEP 2: Mokume Gane Patterns
All mokume patterns are achieved by one of two processes; carving or forging. Guri Bori mokume requires the most involved carving, resulting in a ring that has recesses or layers that resemble topography. Other carved patterns include the woodgrain pattern, twist pattern, and the droplet pattern. Forged patterns include vortex, flow, echo, labyrinth, infinity, metamorphic, as well as others.
Please note that all mokume patterns are unique and so will vary from those pictured. The images below and in the listings are meant to give a general idea of the look of the ring, but please keep in mind that every item is individually made by hand and will inevitably vary from other rings in the same pattern category.
STEP 3: Mokume Gane Finishes
All mokume rings are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or satin finishes.
Etching provides light texture between the layers and really brings out the Mokume Gane pattern.
Etched rings containing silver can also have an oxidized finish that turns the silver a dark gray/black hue. Please note that although the oxidization treatment is stable and durable the black color of oxidized silver is a surface treatment and can be worn off or degraded by some chemicals. Your own body chemistry and lifestyle will affect the lifespan of the treatment.
Oxidation can always be touched up at home by dipping the ring in a diluted cup of bleach.
I only oxidize rings that have been etched as this provides protection from wear as the silver layers are recessed. I am always happy to re-oxidize your ring any time.
STEP 4: Mokume Gane Profiles
We offer two profiles or fits with our rings, Low Dome and Flat. Both are slightly rounded on the inside for a comfort fit. A Flat profile will show off the pattern on the outside, while a Low Dome profile is also rounded on the outside.
Step 5: Extra Options
Add design elements to your ring by adding a rail, liner, stratum, or ridge line to customize your band! Arn has developed the "ridge line" and the "stratum layer" as unique features that are inspired by mountain ridges, and layers of earth. Choose what suits you best!
Step 6: Stone Settings
The settings are the physical way the stones are held in the ring. Choose from prongs, bezel, flush, and more. The setting is an aesthetic and functional choice. Consult with us for advantages and disadvantages of the various setting styles and choose the one that suits your lifestyle.
Step 7: Stone Placement
Choose the way you would like your gems to sit in your ring. Are you interested in many small stones scattered around the ring, one larger stone centered on the band, or a combo? There are many options. See our choices below and choose what looks best for you.