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Now you can! Our collectors are invited to design with Arn to create something incredibly special. Get in touch to talk with us about the options for metal choices, color combos, and patterns.  Mokume is an elusive art form, with very few folks even aware of this traditional Japanese craft. Those who are in the know, know that choosing and customizing your own metal palette is a very rare and special treat. As far as we know we are the only makers in the US that make custom billets in mokume and offer this level of personalization. If you are here, you have great taste and elevated style for sure as this work will only increase in value over time. Check out our blog on mokume value here. Arn is currently booking into November so it’s always best to get in touch ahead to get your luxe piece into our work queue.

A little about our mokume gane and Arn’s process - All of our metal is reclaimed right here in the USA, and because our pieces are all made small batch style 100% in house in our Warren, RI studio by a team of 4 people, it is eco friendly.  Our billets are blocks of layers of metal that have been fused together, often using different types of metals. Billets are the foundation of mokume gane, and custom billets allow for an added layer of personalization. We use primarily palladium, silver, 14 & 18k Red, white and yellow gold.

  The process of creating mokume gane billets involves fusing metals at high temperatures and creating strong bonds between the layers, ensuring that a mokume gane ring will be as long lasting as a more conventional single metal ring. This incredible durability makes mokume such a perfect choice for wedding bands, able to hold up to daily wear. Creating a strong and stable billet is essential. In addition to fabricating all of our stock billets for our rings, the beauty of our mokume gane rings lies in their intricate patterns, which are achieved by carving and forging billets made of many thin layers of metal. Arn is a pioneer on the pattern and palette front and is always engineering and exploring new patterns and processes. He studies nature for patterns and colors for inspo for his next pieces.  Arn’s incredible artistic designs and ability to craft and engineer these works into existence set us apart. We have so much gratitude for the gift of art in our lives and we strive to bring it to yours. 

The primary advantage of custom billets is the level of customization they afford. Each billet can be tailored to suit the preferences of the client, whether it's a specific color combination or even a specific order or proportion of colors in the layers. If you’re envisioning something outside of our stock palette options for your ring, a custom billet can be a great option for finding just the right palette. These pieces are made with quality as a priority as well as visual beauty, and made to last. 

Many couples come to us to design their mokume engagement ring. The first thing to know is that a mokume gane ring is different from a traditional ring in that mokume holds value.

Rings, and especially wedding rings, take on a lot of daily wear, so choosing a strong gemstone is crucial. We work with diamonds, moissanites and sapphires in our mokume rings, as these stones are the strongest and most beautiful. We’ve put together this guide for you to help you understand how gemstones rank in hardness. Softer stones can be great for other jewelry like earrings and necklaces, or even special occasion rings that won’t be worn day to day. 

What is the Mohs Hardness Scale for Gemstones?

When selecting the perfect gemstone for your jewelry, especially in rings, it can be helpful to consult the Mohs Hardness Scale. This fundamental scale, developed in 1812 by Friedrich Mohs, provides a comparative measure of a mineral's resistance to scratching. The Mohs Scale characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of harder materials to scratch softer ones. It serves as a guideline for determining the durability and maintenance needs of gemstones, which can be key information when choosing stones for jewelry that will be worn daily like wedding and engagement rings. Friedrich Mohs, a German mineralogist, introduced the scale to provide a straightforward method of comparing mineral hardness. Although modern tools and methods can measure hardness more precisely, the Mohs scale remains a popular reference for its simplicity and ease of use.

The scale is composed of 10 reference minerals, each representing a specific level of hardness:

1. Talc

2. Gypsum

3. Calcite

4. Fluorite

5. Apatite

6. Orthoclase Feldspar

7. Quartz

8. Topaz

9. Corundum (Sapphire)

10. Diamond

Each mineral can scratch those below it on the scale. For example, a quartz gemstone, rated at 7, can scratch anything with a hardness of 6 or below but will be scratched by topaz, corundum, and diamond.

For rings, especially wedding bands that are worn consistently, selecting a gemstone with a higher Mohs rating ensures longevity and resistance to everyday wear and tear. Diamonds and Sapphires (Corundum) are very strong stones, their popularity for wedding jewelry can be attributed to how well they wear, as well as their beauty. 

The Strongest Stones

Diamonds, rated at 10 on the Mohs scale, are renowned for their unparalleled hardness and brilliance, and have been a top choice for wedding and engagement rings for many years. Their ability to resist scratches ensures that they maintain their sparkle and shape throughout a lifetime. Due to their incredible physical qualities, Diamonds have also been revered by a multitude of cultures throughout history, from being symbols of status to even being believed to possess special properties. Diamonds were often linked with gold, possibly due to the joint occurrence of diamonds with quartzite, quartz veins and an occasional occurrence of gold in them.

Their incredible ability to catch and refract light, creating that characteristic sparkle has always been captivating. They have come to be seen as symbols of strength, purity and endurance. They are also the April birthstone, and symbolize a sixty year anniversary.

Corundum minerals, which include sapphires and rubies, rate at 9 on the Mohs scale. These stones are excellent choices for rings due to their toughness and vibrant colors. Sapphires are available in a wide range of hues, from classic blue to pink and yellow, offering versatile options for personalizing jewelry. We also particularly love pairing sapphires with mokume gane, a stone in a complimentary color can be perfectly suited to the beautiful mix of metal colors and patterns that characterize our mokume rings. Traditionally sapphires symbolize nobility, truth, sincerity, and faithfulness. They have often been associated with spirituality and connection to the celestial. Sapphire is the birthstone for September, and symbolizes 45th wedding anniversaries.

Another lesser known but amazing option for wedding jewelry is the moissanite. It rates at roughly a 9.5 on the Mohs scale. It was originally discovered by Henri Moissan while examining samples from a meteor crater in Arizona in 1893.  Most moissanite available today is lab grown, as it is made of an incredibly rare naturally occuring material, whose origins have been traced to meteorites. Moissanites have a beautiful sparkling quality, evoking the material’s origins of outer space. They are often visually indistinguishable from diamonds, but being lab grown, are sourced sustainably and are a much more affordable option. 

Understanding the Mohs Hardness Scale is invaluable for anyone involved in jewelry design or purchasing. By considering the hardness of gemstones, you can select stones that not only complement your aesthetic preferences but also suit your lifestyle and durability needs. Our mokume gane rings are made at heirloom quality, crafted with care and skill to ensure they last you this lifetime and beyond. Choosing stones that will stand the test of time like mokume gane itself will help you create jewelry that is not only stunning but also built to last, ensuring that your pieces remain cherished for years to come. If you’d like to start your design journey with us, contact us here! 

See the process behind these beautiful mokume gane snake earrings!

Including set stones in your design is a great way to elevate and customize your ring even further as an object de art. Arn sources incredible sapphires, diamonds, and moissanites from trusted sources and skilled lapidaries.  He works with these stones specifically because they are the hardest and most durable stones, and they come in a range of beautiful colors. Arn works with each stones’ unique aspects to integrate it with your mokume gane rings’ composition, pattern and palette. 

Cuts like the round brilliant or cushion can enhance the ring's organic patterns, while angular cuts like the princess or emerald may contrast for a striking effect. This interplay of elements creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.

Stones can be cut in so many ways, each style with different aspects. Understanding the interaction between light and a gemstone is very helpful in appreciating cuts. When light enters a stone, it reflects off its internal surfaces, creating a dazzling play and range of colors known as 'fire.' A well-cut stone will guide light optimally, increasing its brilliance and fire. 

Selecting the right stone cut for a mokume ring involves considering how the cut complements the ring's design. The right stone cut transforms a gemstone, capturing light and color in its facets. Each cut unlocks the stone's potential, revealing its hidden beauty and brilliance. 

At its core, a stone's cut refers to the geometric arrangement of its facets. These facets are strategically placed to reflect and refract light, enhancing the stone's inherent qualities. 

Facets are the flat surfaces on a gemstone, and when facets are perfectly aligned, they create a kaleidoscope of colors, bringing the stone to life. The art of facet arrangement is both a science and an art, requiring skill and precision.

Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight are the universal standards for assessing diamond quality. While all are important, cut is often considered the most influential. A well-cut stone will outshine one with better color or clarity but a poor cut. 

The overall shape of the stone is an important factor to consider as well. Different shapes each interact with light in unique ways, each offering distinct visual effects. The choice of shape can also affect the stone's perceived size; for example, elongated cuts like marquise or oval can make a stone appear larger than its actual carat weight.

The Classic Round Brilliant

The round brilliant cut is the most popular choice for diamonds, renowned for its ability to maximize light return through its facets. 

This cut has a rich history, evolving from early diamond cuts that sought to maximize carat retention rather than brilliance. Its modern form was perfected in the 20th century with the advent of precise mathematical calculations and cutting techniques.

The design involves precise angles and facet placements to enhance light performance. The interplay of these facets allows light to be refracted and reflected multiple times, creating the signature sparkle that defines this cut.

The Brilliant cut has become a classic choice for engagement rings, visually pleasing to the eye, and generally appealing, allowing it to adapt to suit a range of different styles. Its more traditional look contrasts with the more modern and unconventional look of mokume gane, which can make for a beautifully interesting engagement ring. 

The Princess 

For those seeking a more angular look, the Princess cut can be the perfect choice, with its square shape, pointed corners and crisp, angular facets.

The princess cut was developed in the late 20th century, quickly gaining popularity as a more modern style. Its name evokes a sense of royalty and sophistication, appealing to those who love a blend of traditional and contemporary. The cut's sharp angles and clean lines offer a fresh take on classic elegance.

The princess cut’s design maximizes the stone's inherent sparkle and can make inclusions less visible than in other cuts. This combination of brilliance and practicality of cost contributes to its widespread appeal.

The princess cut's modern silhouette makes it versatile for various jewelry styles, from minimalist solitaire settings to elaborate multi-stone arrangements. And the straight lines of the princess cut can play well with various different mokume patterns. Contrasting against the organic and flowing style of a carved pattern like wood grain or twist, or complementing a forged pattern like vortex that has a more linear style.

The Emerald

Characterized by its rectangular shape and step-cut facets, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and elegance. The emerald cut has a long history, originally developed for cutting emeralds to reduce pressure during the cutting process and prevent fractures. Its distinctive step-cut facets were later applied to diamonds, offering a unique alternative to more common brilliant cuts. 

This cut's step-cut facets create a 'hall of mirrors' effect, and its elongated shape can make a stone appear larger, while the open facets provide a clear view into the stone's interior. The emerald cut is often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, exuding sophistication and timeless beauty. Its refined appearance suits those who value classic elegance and understated glamour.

The Marquise

The Marquise cut is characterized by its elongated shape, pointed on both ends, creating an iconic and unique silhouette. The marquise cut's origins trace back to the 18th century, commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond cut that mirrored the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. 

The marquise cut's elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for maximizing carat weight. Its distinctive shape is ideal for those seeking a bold and elegant statement piece.

This cut is perfect for more eclectic and creative tastes, with its pairing of elegant curves and sharp points. It’s a striking and dramatic choice paired with mokume gane, making for beautiful engagement rings.

The Cushion

With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut exudes a romantic aura. It's particularly well-suited for colored gemstones like sapphires. The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut,' has been a popular choice since the 19th century. It was the top choice for diamonds before the advent of the modern brilliant cut. Its soft, rounded edges and antique charm have ensured its enduring popularity among vintage jewelry enthusiasts.

The cushion cut especially enhances color and clarity, making it a great choice for colored stones. This is a cut anyone interested in a colored stone should consider. We love pairing beautifully colored sapphires and diamonds with mokume gane which is inherently a color based material. 

The Asscher

Revered for its Art Deco appeal, the Asscher cut features a square shape with deep step cuts, similar to the emerald cut but with more angular precision. This cut is known for its dramatic optical effects and timeless elegance. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters of their time. Its unique design and angular precision quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era.

The Asscher cut is also known for its distinctive deep cut, creating an intensely sparkling effect. It is a wonderful choice for those looking for a dramatic statement stone.

The Rose

This cut is characterized by a domed face with triangular facets, and a flat back. It’s often associated with vintage style jewelry pieces, as it was most popular in the mid 1700s and about 1840-1900. The Rose cut became less common with the invention of the modern version of the Brilliant cut in 1900, though it had a resurgence in the 1920’s and 30’s with the Art Deco movement. Art Deco jewelry favored large gemstones, and the Rose cut lends well towards this style, as it maximizes carat weight, letting smaller carat stones appear bigger. 

The Rose cut is most often seen as a circle or oval, but is available in so many more shapes! Some Rose cut stones have a more opaque appearance, and the shallowness of the stones creates more of a subtle glimmer, rather than a dramatic sparkle. This cut is a perfect choice to suit a more classic or vintage leaning style, and offers a lot of character. It’s the perfect choice to create an heirloom mokume piece with a nod to the past. 

Selecting the Right Cut for Your Jewelry

Choosing the right cut for your jewelry is a personal decision, influenced by style, symbolism, the type of gemstone, and the intended use of the piece. 

In addition to style and symbolism, practical factors such as durability, daily use, and maintenance should be considered when selecting a cut. Some cuts, like the marquise or pear, may require protective settings to prevent damage to pointed tips. People who work with their hands and are very active might prefer a classic round stone to one that has square or pointed edges perhaps. Understanding these considerations ensures that the engagement ring remains a beautiful and enduring symbol of love.