What Is Mokume & How to Design Your Ring

 

What is the Mokume Gane Technique?

 Mokume gane is a traditional Japanese technique in which layers of precious metals are fused together with heat and pressure, then twisted, carved, and forged to create beautiful organic patterns. The Mokume Gane process is a metalworking craft in which mixed metals are layered and patterned to resemble wood grain. 

Our mokume rings are made in various combinations of yellow gold, red gold, white gold, silver, and palladium. In my many years of making mokume  Arn has developed the skills to make bands that resemble wood grain, topographical canyons, oceanic waves, and other natural formations. We take pride in the custom nature of the work and offer the widest selection of mokume patterns that you will see at any shop.

Made-to-order Mokume Gane Rings

Our mixed metal mokume rings are available in any size, width, pattern, metal combination, and finish. We can help you source a new stone for your ring to suit your vision, or you can provide your own stone for setting. All rings are made individually from start to finish and so will be completely custom. All mokume patterns are unique and so will vary slightly from those pictured.

Build Your Custom Ring

When putting together your custom quote, we will need to know the following:

  1. Metal Palette      
  2. Pattern
  3. Width
  4. Finish
  5. Profile
  6. Extra Options*
  7. Stone Setting*
  8. Stone Placement*
  9. Ring Size

(* Optional features) 

A note about sizing : Determining your ring size is an art not a science. Finger size can fluctuate for many reasons on even a daily basis, for a variety of reasons - weather, salt or water intake, exercise, etc.

We do offer a sizer service if you would like to confirm your ring size with us, this can be a helpful additional step as ring sizes aren't completely standardized across the jewelry industry. Our sizer service is $175, and we'll send you a range of steel sizers to try out and see what fits best. We ask that you wear your ring sizer over the course of a week or two to become comfortable with how the ring will fit in different conditions.  Once you are comfortable with the way the ring fits let us know which sizer you've chosen and send all the sizers back to us. Take note- we can’t deliver a ring sizer in exactly your width and size (though we are trying to figure out how to do this in the future!) So keep in mind that if your ring is a greater width than the sizer it will be a tighter fit and if it is less width it will be looser. We do need all sizers to be returned, and there is a $200 fee if they are not. 

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STEP 1: Mokume Gane Metal Combinations and Palettes 

We offer two, three, and four stock metal combinations that use 14kt Yellow Gold, 14kt Red Gold, 14kt White Gold, Sterling Silver, and Palladium. Our Mokume Gane jewelry involves any combination of these five metals, as the listings will picture. Custom combinations, or upgrades like 18k gold, can be done for an additional fee.

Any piece with Sterling Silver can also receive an oxidized finish, which is a surface treatment that darkens/blackens the silver. This treatment will wear off over time, but we do offer refinishing services and you can contact us at any time to inquire about this!

Please note that we do not offer copper in our metal combinations.  Copper unfortunately corrodes rapidly. A common occurrence you might’ve noticed after wearing copper jewelry is a green stain on your skin. Unfortunately, mixing copper and silver will cause the destruction of your ring and we want them to last you a lifetime!  All of our metals are responsibly sourced.

Click the swatches below to see ring examples of each palette!

Close up of mokume gane pattern, a square cut in half on the diagonal, one half palladium and silver, the other half palladium and oxidized silver.        Close up of mokume gane, a square cut in half on the diagonal, half red gold and silver, the other half red gold and oxidized silver.        Close up square of mokume gane pattern cut in half on the diagonal, half of yellow gold with silver, the other half with yellow gold and oxidized silver.

Close up of mokume gane pattern, a square cut in half on the diagonal, one half white gold, palladium and silver, the other half white gold, palladium and oxidized silver.        Close up of mokume gane pattern, a square cut in half on the diagonal, one half red gold, palladium and silver, the other half red gold, palladium and oxidized silver.        Close up of mokume gane pattern, a square cut in half on the diagonal, one half yellow gold, palladium and silver, the other half yellow gold, palladium and oxidized silver.
Close up square of mokume gane pattern cut in half on the diagonal, half of yellow gold, red gold and palladium with silver, the other half with yellow gold, red gold and palladium and oxidized silver.        Close up square of mokume gane pattern cut in half on the diagonal, half of red and yellow gold with silver, the other half with red and yellow gold and oxidized silver.        Close up square of mokume gane pattern made of layers of red gold and yellow gold with palladium
Close up square of mokume gane pattern made of layers of red gold and yellow gold with palladium        Close up of mokume gane pattern,with multiple different combinations of golds and palladium, and varying patterns.
              

 

STEP 2: Mokume Gane Patterns

All mokume patterns are achieved by one of two processes; carving or forging. Guri Bori mokume requires the most involved carving, resulting in a ring that has recesses or layers that resemble topography. Other carved patterns include the woodgrain pattern, twist pattern, and the droplet pattern. Forged patterns include vortex, and flow. I'm also completely open to creating custom patterns, please inquire with us directly if you have a concept you'd like to create!

Please note that all mokume patterns are unique and so will vary from those pictured. The images below and in the listings are meant to give a general idea of the look of the ring, but please keep in mind that every item is individually made by hand and will inevitably vary from other rings in the same pattern category.

Click the swatches below to see ring examples of each pattern!

Close up of mokume gane woodgrain style pattern, made with layers of gold, silver and palladium.        Close up of mokume gane twist style pattern, made with layers of gold, silver and palladium. Pattern is a mixture of diagonal lines and wavy organic shapes.        Close up of carved mokume gane pattern, many small circular shapes clustered together looking like raindrops on water.
Close up of forged style mokume gane patterned ring, with a center line and symmetrical pattern on either side.        Close up of mokume gane patterned ring with a diagonal joint running right across the center, linear style pattern echoing off of the center line.        Close up of mokume gane patterned ring, diagonal movement from bottom left corner up to top right, with linear pattern on the left side, transitioning into small droplet style pattern on the other side.
Close up of mokume gane patterned ring, diagonal movement from bottom left corner up to top right, with linear pattern and curving lines that resemble a star burst.        Close up of mokume gane forged pattern, long thin lines with patterned knots throughout, knots are eyelike in shape and made of one solid metal color.        Close up of mokume forged pattern, long thin lines with patterned knots throughout, knots are eyelike in shape and patterned to match..
Close up of textured mokume gane patterned ring, made to look like rocks or topography.        Close up of mokume gane patterned ring, made with layers of golds and oxidized silver, resembling a sunset landscape looking at a horizon.        Close up of mokume gane patterned ring, made of straight lines running across horizontally
Close up of patterned mokume gane ring, pattern made of looping shapes.

STEP 3: Mokume Gane Finishes

All mokume rings are available in an etched, etch & oxidized, or satin finishes. 

Etching provides light texture between the layers and really brings out the Mokume Gane pattern. Etching is always recommended for oxidized finishes, as it helps the oxidation last. Please let us know if you have any questions about finish options!

Etched rings containing silver can also have an oxidized finish that turns the silver a dark gray/black hue. Please note that although the oxidization treatment is stable and durable the black color of oxidized silver is a surface treatment and can be worn off or degraded by some chemicals. Your own body chemistry and lifestyle will affect the lifespan of the treatment. If your oxidized finish does wear off and you'd like a refresh, you can contact us at any time for refinishing service!

Close up of mokume gane ring made in twisting pattern with layers of red and yellow gold, palladium, and silver        Close up of mokume gane ring made in twisting pattern with layers of red and yellow gold, palladium, and silver        Close up of mokume gane ring made in twisting pattern with layers of red and yellow gold, palladium, and silver

STEP 4: Ring Profiles

We offer two profiles or fits with our rings, Low Dome and Flat. Both are slightly rounded on the inside for a comfort fit. A Flat profile will show off the pattern on the outside, while a Low Dome profile is also rounded on the outside.

close up of mokume gane ring highlighting the gently rounded domed profile        close up of mokume gane ring highlighting the flat edged profile        close up of mokume gane ring highlighting the angled beveled profile

Step 5: Extra Options

Add design elements to your ring by adding a rail, liner, stratum, or ridge line to customize your band! Arn has developed the "ridge line" and the "stratum layer" as unique features that are inspired by mountain ridges, and layers of earth. Choose what suits you best!

Step 6: Stone Settings

The settings are the physical way the stones are held in the ring. Choose from prongs, bezel, flush, and more. The setting is an aesthetic and functional choice. Consult with us for advantages and disadvantages of the various setting styles and choose the one that suits your lifestyle.

Step 7: Stone Placement

Choose the way you would like your gems to sit in your ring. Are you interested in many small stones scattered around the ring, one larger stone centered on the band, or a combo? There are many options. See our choices below and choose what looks best for you.


Any other questions? Ready to place your order?

CONTACT US ABOUT A CUSTOM ORDER