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Mokume's Value & Designing Your Engagement Ring
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Many couples come to us to design their mokume engagement ring. The first thing to know is that a mokume gane ring is different from a traditional ring in that mokume holds value.
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Mokume's Value & Designing Your Engagement Ring
Posted by Susan Freda on
Many couples come to us to design their mokume engagement ring. The first thing to know is that a mokume gane ring is different from a traditional ring in that mokume holds value.
Read more
Mokume Gane Ouroboros Talisman Earrings
Posted by Susan Freda on
See the process behind these beautiful mokume gane snake earrings!
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Mokume Gane Ouroboros Talisman Earrings
Posted by Susan Freda on
Princess Cut, Brilliant Cut, Emerald Cut, Marquis...Exploring the Art of Stone Cuts
Posted by Susan Freda on
Including set stones in your design is a great way to elevate and customize your ring even further as an object de art. Arn sources incredible sapphires, diamonds, and moissanites from trusted sources and skilled lapidaries. He works with these stones specifically because they are the hardest and most durable stones, and they come in a range of beautiful colors. Arn works with each stones’ unique aspects to integrate it with your mokume gane rings’ composition, pattern and palette.
Cuts like the round brilliant or cushion can enhance the ring's organic patterns, while angular cuts like the princess or emerald may contrast for a striking effect. This interplay of elements creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.
Stones can be cut in so many ways, each style with different aspects. Understanding the interaction between light and a gemstone is very helpful in appreciating cuts. When light enters a stone, it reflects off its internal surfaces, creating a dazzling play and range of colors known as 'fire.' A well-cut stone will guide light optimally, increasing its brilliance and fire.
Selecting the right stone cut for a mokume ring involves considering how the cut complements the ring's design. The right stone cut transforms a gemstone, capturing light and color in its facets. Each cut unlocks the stone's potential, revealing its hidden beauty and brilliance.
At its core, a stone's cut refers to the geometric arrangement of its facets. These facets are strategically placed to reflect and refract light, enhancing the stone's inherent qualities.
Facets are the flat surfaces on a gemstone, and when facets are perfectly aligned, they create a kaleidoscope of colors, bringing the stone to life. The art of facet arrangement is both a science and an art, requiring skill and precision.
Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight are the universal standards for assessing diamond quality. While all are important, cut is often considered the most influential. A well-cut stone will outshine one with better color or clarity but a poor cut.
The overall shape of the stone is an important factor to consider as well. Different shapes each interact with light in unique ways, each offering distinct visual effects. The choice of shape can also affect the stone's perceived size; for example, elongated cuts like marquise or oval can make a stone appear larger than its actual carat weight.
The Classic Round Brilliant
The round brilliant cut is the most popular choice for diamonds, renowned for its ability to maximize light return through its facets.
This cut has a rich history, evolving from early diamond cuts that sought to maximize carat retention rather than brilliance. Its modern form was perfected in the 20th century with the advent of precise mathematical calculations and cutting techniques.
The design involves precise angles and facet placements to enhance light performance. The interplay of these facets allows light to be refracted and reflected multiple times, creating the signature sparkle that defines this cut.
The Brilliant cut has become a classic choice for engagement rings, visually pleasing to the eye, and generally appealing, allowing it to adapt to suit a range of different styles. Its more traditional look contrasts with the more modern and unconventional look of mokume gane, which can make for a beautifully interesting engagement ring.
The Princess
For those seeking a more angular look, the Princess cut can be the perfect choice, with its square shape, pointed corners and crisp, angular facets.
The princess cut was developed in the late 20th century, quickly gaining popularity as a more modern style. Its name evokes a sense of royalty and sophistication, appealing to those who love a blend of traditional and contemporary. The cut's sharp angles and clean lines offer a fresh take on classic elegance.
The princess cut’s design maximizes the stone's inherent sparkle and can make inclusions less visible than in other cuts. This combination of brilliance and practicality of cost contributes to its widespread appeal.
The princess cut's modern silhouette makes it versatile for various jewelry styles, from minimalist solitaire settings to elaborate multi-stone arrangements. And the straight lines of the princess cut can play well with various different mokume patterns. Contrasting against the organic and flowing style of a carved pattern like wood grain or twist, or complementing a forged pattern like vortex that has a more linear style.
The Emerald
Characterized by its rectangular shape and step-cut facets, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and elegance. The emerald cut has a long history, originally developed for cutting emeralds to reduce pressure during the cutting process and prevent fractures. Its distinctive step-cut facets were later applied to diamonds, offering a unique alternative to more common brilliant cuts.
This cut's step-cut facets create a 'hall of mirrors' effect, and its elongated shape can make a stone appear larger, while the open facets provide a clear view into the stone's interior. The emerald cut is often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, exuding sophistication and timeless beauty. Its refined appearance suits those who value classic elegance and understated glamour.
The Marquise
The Marquise cut is characterized by its elongated shape, pointed on both ends, creating an iconic and unique silhouette. The marquise cut's origins trace back to the 18th century, commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond cut that mirrored the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.
The marquise cut's elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for maximizing carat weight. Its distinctive shape is ideal for those seeking a bold and elegant statement piece.
This cut is perfect for more eclectic and creative tastes, with its pairing of elegant curves and sharp points. It’s a striking and dramatic choice paired with mokume gane, making for beautiful engagement rings.
The Cushion
With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut exudes a romantic aura. It's particularly well-suited for colored gemstones like sapphires. The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut,' has been a popular choice since the 19th century. It was the top choice for diamonds before the advent of the modern brilliant cut. Its soft, rounded edges and antique charm have ensured its enduring popularity among vintage jewelry enthusiasts.
The cushion cut especially enhances color and clarity, making it a great choice for colored stones. This is a cut anyone interested in a colored stone should consider. We love pairing beautifully colored sapphires and diamonds with mokume gane which is inherently a color based material.
The Asscher
Revered for its Art Deco appeal, the Asscher cut features a square shape with deep step cuts, similar to the emerald cut but with more angular precision. This cut is known for its dramatic optical effects and timeless elegance. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters of their time. Its unique design and angular precision quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era.
The Asscher cut is also known for its distinctive deep cut, creating an intensely sparkling effect. It is a wonderful choice for those looking for a dramatic statement stone.
The Rose
This cut is characterized by a domed face with triangular facets, and a flat back. It’s often associated with vintage style jewelry pieces, as it was most popular in the mid 1700s and about 1840-1900. The Rose cut became less common with the invention of the modern version of the Brilliant cut in 1900, though it had a resurgence in the 1920’s and 30’s with the Art Deco movement. Art Deco jewelry favored large gemstones, and the Rose cut lends well towards this style, as it maximizes carat weight, letting smaller carat stones appear bigger.
The Rose cut is most often seen as a circle or oval, but is available in so many more shapes! Some Rose cut stones have a more opaque appearance, and the shallowness of the stones creates more of a subtle glimmer, rather than a dramatic sparkle. This cut is a perfect choice to suit a more classic or vintage leaning style, and offers a lot of character. It’s the perfect choice to create an heirloom mokume piece with a nod to the past.
Selecting the Right Cut for Your Jewelry
Choosing the right cut for your jewelry is a personal decision, influenced by style, symbolism, the type of gemstone, and the intended use of the piece.
In addition to style and symbolism, practical factors such as durability, daily use, and maintenance should be considered when selecting a cut. Some cuts, like the marquise or pear, may require protective settings to prevent damage to pointed tips. People who work with their hands and are very active might prefer a classic round stone to one that has square or pointed edges perhaps. Understanding these considerations ensures that the engagement ring remains a beautiful and enduring symbol of love.
Read more
Princess Cut, Brilliant Cut, Emerald Cut, Marquis...Exploring the Art of Stone Cuts
Posted by Susan Freda on
Including set stones in your design is a great way to elevate and customize your ring even further as an object de art. Arn sources incredible sapphires, diamonds, and moissanites from trusted sources and skilled lapidaries. He works with these stones specifically because they are the hardest and most durable stones, and they come in a range of beautiful colors. Arn works with each stones’ unique aspects to integrate it with your mokume gane rings’ composition, pattern and palette.
Cuts like the round brilliant or cushion can enhance the ring's organic patterns, while angular cuts like the princess or emerald may contrast for a striking effect. This interplay of elements creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.
Stones can be cut in so many ways, each style with different aspects. Understanding the interaction between light and a gemstone is very helpful in appreciating cuts. When light enters a stone, it reflects off its internal surfaces, creating a dazzling play and range of colors known as 'fire.' A well-cut stone will guide light optimally, increasing its brilliance and fire.
Selecting the right stone cut for a mokume ring involves considering how the cut complements the ring's design. The right stone cut transforms a gemstone, capturing light and color in its facets. Each cut unlocks the stone's potential, revealing its hidden beauty and brilliance.
At its core, a stone's cut refers to the geometric arrangement of its facets. These facets are strategically placed to reflect and refract light, enhancing the stone's inherent qualities.
Facets are the flat surfaces on a gemstone, and when facets are perfectly aligned, they create a kaleidoscope of colors, bringing the stone to life. The art of facet arrangement is both a science and an art, requiring skill and precision.
Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight are the universal standards for assessing diamond quality. While all are important, cut is often considered the most influential. A well-cut stone will outshine one with better color or clarity but a poor cut.
The overall shape of the stone is an important factor to consider as well. Different shapes each interact with light in unique ways, each offering distinct visual effects. The choice of shape can also affect the stone's perceived size; for example, elongated cuts like marquise or oval can make a stone appear larger than its actual carat weight.
The Classic Round Brilliant
The round brilliant cut is the most popular choice for diamonds, renowned for its ability to maximize light return through its facets.
This cut has a rich history, evolving from early diamond cuts that sought to maximize carat retention rather than brilliance. Its modern form was perfected in the 20th century with the advent of precise mathematical calculations and cutting techniques.
The design involves precise angles and facet placements to enhance light performance. The interplay of these facets allows light to be refracted and reflected multiple times, creating the signature sparkle that defines this cut.
The Brilliant cut has become a classic choice for engagement rings, visually pleasing to the eye, and generally appealing, allowing it to adapt to suit a range of different styles. Its more traditional look contrasts with the more modern and unconventional look of mokume gane, which can make for a beautifully interesting engagement ring.
The Princess
For those seeking a more angular look, the Princess cut can be the perfect choice, with its square shape, pointed corners and crisp, angular facets.
The princess cut was developed in the late 20th century, quickly gaining popularity as a more modern style. Its name evokes a sense of royalty and sophistication, appealing to those who love a blend of traditional and contemporary. The cut's sharp angles and clean lines offer a fresh take on classic elegance.
The princess cut’s design maximizes the stone's inherent sparkle and can make inclusions less visible than in other cuts. This combination of brilliance and practicality of cost contributes to its widespread appeal.
The princess cut's modern silhouette makes it versatile for various jewelry styles, from minimalist solitaire settings to elaborate multi-stone arrangements. And the straight lines of the princess cut can play well with various different mokume patterns. Contrasting against the organic and flowing style of a carved pattern like wood grain or twist, or complementing a forged pattern like vortex that has a more linear style.
The Emerald
Characterized by its rectangular shape and step-cut facets, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and elegance. The emerald cut has a long history, originally developed for cutting emeralds to reduce pressure during the cutting process and prevent fractures. Its distinctive step-cut facets were later applied to diamonds, offering a unique alternative to more common brilliant cuts.
This cut's step-cut facets create a 'hall of mirrors' effect, and its elongated shape can make a stone appear larger, while the open facets provide a clear view into the stone's interior. The emerald cut is often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, exuding sophistication and timeless beauty. Its refined appearance suits those who value classic elegance and understated glamour.
The Marquise
The Marquise cut is characterized by its elongated shape, pointed on both ends, creating an iconic and unique silhouette. The marquise cut's origins trace back to the 18th century, commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond cut that mirrored the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour.
The marquise cut's elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for maximizing carat weight. Its distinctive shape is ideal for those seeking a bold and elegant statement piece.
This cut is perfect for more eclectic and creative tastes, with its pairing of elegant curves and sharp points. It’s a striking and dramatic choice paired with mokume gane, making for beautiful engagement rings.
The Cushion
With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut exudes a romantic aura. It's particularly well-suited for colored gemstones like sapphires. The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut,' has been a popular choice since the 19th century. It was the top choice for diamonds before the advent of the modern brilliant cut. Its soft, rounded edges and antique charm have ensured its enduring popularity among vintage jewelry enthusiasts.
The cushion cut especially enhances color and clarity, making it a great choice for colored stones. This is a cut anyone interested in a colored stone should consider. We love pairing beautifully colored sapphires and diamonds with mokume gane which is inherently a color based material.
The Asscher
Revered for its Art Deco appeal, the Asscher cut features a square shape with deep step cuts, similar to the emerald cut but with more angular precision. This cut is known for its dramatic optical effects and timeless elegance. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters of their time. Its unique design and angular precision quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era.
The Asscher cut is also known for its distinctive deep cut, creating an intensely sparkling effect. It is a wonderful choice for those looking for a dramatic statement stone.
The Rose
This cut is characterized by a domed face with triangular facets, and a flat back. It’s often associated with vintage style jewelry pieces, as it was most popular in the mid 1700s and about 1840-1900. The Rose cut became less common with the invention of the modern version of the Brilliant cut in 1900, though it had a resurgence in the 1920’s and 30’s with the Art Deco movement. Art Deco jewelry favored large gemstones, and the Rose cut lends well towards this style, as it maximizes carat weight, letting smaller carat stones appear bigger.
The Rose cut is most often seen as a circle or oval, but is available in so many more shapes! Some Rose cut stones have a more opaque appearance, and the shallowness of the stones creates more of a subtle glimmer, rather than a dramatic sparkle. This cut is a perfect choice to suit a more classic or vintage leaning style, and offers a lot of character. It’s the perfect choice to create an heirloom mokume piece with a nod to the past.
Selecting the Right Cut for Your Jewelry
Choosing the right cut for your jewelry is a personal decision, influenced by style, symbolism, the type of gemstone, and the intended use of the piece.
In addition to style and symbolism, practical factors such as durability, daily use, and maintenance should be considered when selecting a cut. Some cuts, like the marquise or pear, may require protective settings to prevent damage to pointed tips. People who work with their hands and are very active might prefer a classic round stone to one that has square or pointed edges perhaps. Understanding these considerations ensures that the engagement ring remains a beautiful and enduring symbol of love.
Read more
Mokume Gane Rings: The Perfect Symbol of Marriage
Posted by Susan Freda on
Mokume Gane rings are the perfect material for unique wedding rings, and a wonderful combination of symbolism and high quality craftsmanship that will stand the test of time.
The process of making mokume itself is at its’ core about creating a strong bond. Taking sheets of different precious metals such as various colored golds, palladium, and silver, and forging a connection between them with heat and pressure to create a billet. This part of the process is the foundation for the ring, requiring great skill and attention.
Mokume Gane rings are not only beautiful but also durable. Like a traditional style band, the precious metals wear well and are made to be heirloom quality. We believe in making pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond.
Each mokume ring is carefully handcrafted, so each is unique! This quality is perfect for wedding rings, as even within a matched set, each ring will have small details that make it one of a kind.
Each person can choose designs to both suit their own tastes and style but also to match with features of their partner's ring, keeping a strong connection to the other. For example, choosing to have the same pattern for both rings, but each picking a different palette (or vice versa).
Finish is also important to consider, as oxidizing makes a distinct visual difference with darkened outlines. Two rings made in the same palette can even look different, if one person prefers a lighter look than the other they can choose the non oxidized option.
If both wedding rings are made in the same palette, they will be cut from the same billet, further symbolizing the bond between the two rings and the relationship between the people wearing them. If the same pattern is chosen, the rings will be matched to each other in a unique design that only you two share.
Our mokume gane rings are each lovingly made by hand. They are beautiful, unique, and made to last and to be handed down for generations to come.
Read more
Mokume Gane Rings: The Perfect Symbol of Marriage
Posted by Susan Freda on
Mokume Gane rings are the perfect material for unique wedding rings, and a wonderful combination of symbolism and high quality craftsmanship that will stand the test of time.
The process of making mokume itself is at its’ core about creating a strong bond. Taking sheets of different precious metals such as various colored golds, palladium, and silver, and forging a connection between them with heat and pressure to create a billet. This part of the process is the foundation for the ring, requiring great skill and attention.
Mokume Gane rings are not only beautiful but also durable. Like a traditional style band, the precious metals wear well and are made to be heirloom quality. We believe in making pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond.
Each mokume ring is carefully handcrafted, so each is unique! This quality is perfect for wedding rings, as even within a matched set, each ring will have small details that make it one of a kind.
Each person can choose designs to both suit their own tastes and style but also to match with features of their partner's ring, keeping a strong connection to the other. For example, choosing to have the same pattern for both rings, but each picking a different palette (or vice versa).
Finish is also important to consider, as oxidizing makes a distinct visual difference with darkened outlines. Two rings made in the same palette can even look different, if one person prefers a lighter look than the other they can choose the non oxidized option.
If both wedding rings are made in the same palette, they will be cut from the same billet, further symbolizing the bond between the two rings and the relationship between the people wearing them. If the same pattern is chosen, the rings will be matched to each other in a unique design that only you two share.
Our mokume gane rings are each lovingly made by hand. They are beautiful, unique, and made to last and to be handed down for generations to come.
Read more
Your Custom Mokume Gane Ring - Choosing Your Palette
Posted by Susan Freda on
One of the first choices you may make in designing your custom mokume gane ring is which palette you would like! There are many possibilities, each metal combination offers a different look.
Check out our gorgeous Design Guide, which shows the metals used in each of our stocked palettes. All of our mokume gane is made with only precious metals, recycled and nickel free. One of the most beautiful aspects of our mokume work is its multi-colored nature.
We thought we would group our options into a few categories to show the range of options. See what suits your and your partners taste.
Warm toned palettes:
Red gold forward
Flame Embers
Yellow gold forward
Spark Flare
Generally Warm
(these palettes have both red and yellow gold, so they vary between leaning toward either color, and Blaze in particular feels very warm and vivid as it’s all gold, no silver)
Fire Firestorm
Blaze Cinders
Cool/Neutral toned palettes:
Smoke Ash
Our palettes are fire themed, as Arn feels drawn to the making process of mokume itself, using heat and fire to bond the metals. So rather than naming based on the wood grain appearance of the patterns, he draws inspiration from the forge itself.
A benefit of a ring made in mokume gane is that they are made with precious metals which inherently offer vivid and lively color combinations. As opposed to an option like damascus, which would always be only shades of gray, as damascus is made in steel.
Mokume gane wedding rings combine the luxury and beauty of gold and silver as traditional materials, with a more unique and contemporary organic style. They are the perfect choice for the individual who wants to use precious and high quality materials that hold value and stand up to time.
With our custom design options, you can also choose a completely custom billet if one of our stock options isn’t exactly what you’re envisioning. We can incorporate other precious metals like 18 or 22kt golds or platinum.
Along with the metal palette, finish affects how the colors of your ring will look!
Oxidation darkens the silver layers of the ring, and this overall gives the ring a higher contrast look. This is one of Arn’s distinctive design choices that sets him apart from other artists.
Shown here: Firestorm, satin finish (left image) vs etched & oxidized (right image)
Etching is also a consideration with finish, this is part of Arn’s signature in his work, many other mokume makers do not etch their rings, but Arn feels it adds contrast, only enhancing the patterns and bringing out small details that would be harder to see with a smooth finish. Etching also adds to the resemblance the rings have to wood, a trademark element of mokume gane.
Once you have chosen your palette you can move on to the pattern. We will go into this in our next blog. Please sign up for our mailing list so that you can have new blogs, sales, and news delivered to your inbox.
We never share your email with anyone and we only send one email per month.
Thanks for reading and supporting handmade work!
Read more
Your Custom Mokume Gane Ring - Choosing Your Palette
Posted by Susan Freda on
One of the first choices you may make in designing your custom mokume gane ring is which palette you would like! There are many possibilities, each metal combination offers a different look.
Check out our gorgeous Design Guide, which shows the metals used in each of our stocked palettes. All of our mokume gane is made with only precious metals, recycled and nickel free. One of the most beautiful aspects of our mokume work is its multi-colored nature.
We thought we would group our options into a few categories to show the range of options. See what suits your and your partners taste.
Warm toned palettes:
Red gold forward
Flame Embers
Yellow gold forward
Spark Flare
Generally Warm
(these palettes have both red and yellow gold, so they vary between leaning toward either color, and Blaze in particular feels very warm and vivid as it’s all gold, no silver)
Fire Firestorm
Blaze Cinders
Cool/Neutral toned palettes:
Smoke Ash
Our palettes are fire themed, as Arn feels drawn to the making process of mokume itself, using heat and fire to bond the metals. So rather than naming based on the wood grain appearance of the patterns, he draws inspiration from the forge itself.
A benefit of a ring made in mokume gane is that they are made with precious metals which inherently offer vivid and lively color combinations. As opposed to an option like damascus, which would always be only shades of gray, as damascus is made in steel.
Mokume gane wedding rings combine the luxury and beauty of gold and silver as traditional materials, with a more unique and contemporary organic style. They are the perfect choice for the individual who wants to use precious and high quality materials that hold value and stand up to time.
With our custom design options, you can also choose a completely custom billet if one of our stock options isn’t exactly what you’re envisioning. We can incorporate other precious metals like 18 or 22kt golds or platinum.
Along with the metal palette, finish affects how the colors of your ring will look!
Oxidation darkens the silver layers of the ring, and this overall gives the ring a higher contrast look. This is one of Arn’s distinctive design choices that sets him apart from other artists.
Shown here: Firestorm, satin finish (left image) vs etched & oxidized (right image)
Etching is also a consideration with finish, this is part of Arn’s signature in his work, many other mokume makers do not etch their rings, but Arn feels it adds contrast, only enhancing the patterns and bringing out small details that would be harder to see with a smooth finish. Etching also adds to the resemblance the rings have to wood, a trademark element of mokume gane.
Once you have chosen your palette you can move on to the pattern. We will go into this in our next blog. Please sign up for our mailing list so that you can have new blogs, sales, and news delivered to your inbox.
We never share your email with anyone and we only send one email per month.
Thanks for reading and supporting handmade work!