When we think of sculpture, we often imagine monumental works in bronze, stone or steel – pieces that command space, and invite viewers to walk around them to admire, often at a distance. Jewelry, on the other hand, is intimate, personal, and designed to be worn close to the body, either as a meaningful symbol or as an accessory. In the hands of artists, however, the boundaries between fine art and adornment are far more fluid than they may at first appear.
Famous for Art, Collectible for Jewelry
The link between art and jewelry can be seen in the works of many notable artists: Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, and Frank Stella included. These artists desired a new medium, or forum for expression, and they worked closely with skilled goldsmiths and jewelers to create pendants, brooches and rings that were wearable extensions of their artistic vision. This dovetail between art and jewelry is perhaps even more natural for those of us who are metal sculptors to begin with.
Alexander Calder - A Metal Sculptor’s Hands-on Approach
Perhaps one of the greatest modern examples of a brilliant sculptor with a remarkable collection of jewelry as wearable art is Alexander Calder. The beauty of Calder’s art is in its movement. With mobiles and stabiles among his most famous works, Calder’s abstract shapes shift in airflow, creating dynamic sculptures that are ever changing.
Lobster Trap and Fish Tail, 1939, calder.org
Southern Cross, 1963, calder.org
Calder’s jewelry brought his mastery of movement and form into the realm of wearables. Calder hand-sculpted his own pieces, and used jewelry for expression, sometimes by quite literally bending metal into words.
Calder Foundation
As an observer, I find it fascinating that Calder’s jewelry shows even more variety to his vast skills. From his earrings that move with air as if they were plucked directly from one of his mobiles, to his statement collars that give only the impression of movement in the swirls of metal.
frederic magazine
And of course, there is something different between the piece on a stand, and the piece on a moving, living, dynamic human canvas. Calder’s jewelry was sometimes deeply personal–created specifically for his wife or even his sister’s dolls– and sometimes it was created for the art itself.
Jewelry allows a sculptor an outlet for natural experimentation, variety, and exploration into making pieces that are not only personal to another, but that will actually change when given life by the wearer. It makes perfect sense that so many artists experiment with jewelry, and that sculptors particularly are inclined to create wearable pieces.
My Personal Connection to Jewelry
Like Calder, I find there is something deeply personal about jewelry, and as a metal sculptor, I not only design but also construct my own jewelry. I grew up in Rhode Island. Once considered the “Jewelry Capital of the World,” Rhode Island produced a quarter of the United States’s total jewelry during the 19th century. Although the concentrated jewelry production has slowed somewhat for our state, Rhode Island remains a place for jewelry and metal artists to find their brand.
My grandparents were descendants of that first tremendous jewelry rush. Two artists and entrepreneurs, Darwin Freda created metal costume jewelry, and Angelina Freda hand painted and finished the pieces. The glitter and glam of their style was something I loved as a child, and their industrious effort to capture light and beauty in bits of metal has inspired me long since.
My Own Wearable Art – The Vitality of a Human Canvas
There are many ways to “bring art to life.” For me, it’s by capturing spirit, movement, a flickering moment in time; and yes, sometimes by creating it to be worn by a lovely, living being. My jewelry pieces are meant to speak as a sculpture on their own, but in truth, they are never quite finished until they are worn. Whether at a wedding or event, these pieces will be complete when they catch the light, line and movement of their human canvas.
See my current collection of wearable sculpture here: Wearable Sculpture, Sculptural Necklace, Sculptural Earrings – Susan Freda Studios .
When I’m creating custom pieces, the process is slightly different – the intended wearer is part of the design from the start.
If you are interested in a piece created just for you, I would love to hear from you.
To learn more about a custom piece of sculpture, or commissioned wearable art, please contact us.