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Rings, and especially wedding rings, take on a lot of daily wear, so choosing a strong gemstone is crucial. We work with diamonds, moissanites and sapphire, as these stones are the strongest as well as beautiful. We’ve put together this guide for you to help you understand how gemstones rank in hardness. Softer stones can be great for other jewelry like earrings and necklaces, or even special occasion rings that won’t be worn day to day. 

What is the Mohs Hardness Scale for Gemstones?

When selecting the perfect gemstone for your jewelry, especially in rings, it can be helpful to consult the Mohs Hardness Scale. This fundamental scale, developed in 1812 by Friedrich Mohs, provides a comparative measure of a mineral's resistance to scratching. The Mohs Scale characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of harder materials to scratch softer ones. It serves as a guideline for determining the durability and maintenance needs of gemstones, which can be key information when choosing stones for jewelry that will be worn daily like wedding and engagement rings. Friedrich Mohs, a German mineralogist, introduced the scale to provide a straightforward method of comparing mineral hardness. Although modern tools and methods can measure hardness more precisely, the Mohs scale remains a popular reference for its simplicity and ease of use.

The scale is composed of 10 reference minerals, each representing a specific level of hardness:

1. Talc

2. Gypsum

3. Calcite

4. Fluorite

5. Apatite

6. Orthoclase Feldspar

7. Quartz

8. Topaz

9. Corundum (Sapphire)

10. Diamond

Each mineral can scratch those below it on the scale. For example, a quartz gemstone, rated at 7, can scratch anything with a hardness of 6 or below but will be scratched by topaz, corundum, and diamond.

For rings, especially wedding bands that are worn consistently, selecting a gemstone with a higher Mohs rating ensures longevity and resistance to everyday wear and tear. Diamonds and Sapphires (Corundum) are very strong stones, their popularity for wedding jewelry can be attributed to how well they wear, as well as their beauty. 

The Strongest Stones

Diamonds, rated at 10 on the Mohs scale, are renowned for their unparalleled hardness and brilliance, and have been a top choice for wedding and engagement rings for many years. Their ability to resist scratches ensures that they maintain their sparkle and shape throughout a lifetime. Due to their incredible physical qualities, Diamonds have also been revered by a multitude of cultures throughout history, from being symbols of status to even being believed to possess special properties. Diamonds were often linked with gold, possibly due to the joint occurrence of diamonds with quartzite, quartz veins and an occasional occurrence of gold in them.

Their incredible ability to catch and refract light, creating that characteristic sparkle has always been captivating. They have come to be seen as symbols of strength, purity and endurance. They are also the April birthstone, and symbolize a sixty year anniversary.

Corundum minerals, which include sapphires and rubies, rate at 9 on the Mohs scale. These stones are excellent choices for rings due to their toughness and vibrant colors. Sapphires are available in a wide range of hues, from classic blue to pink and yellow, offering versatile options for personalizing jewelry. We also particularly love pairing sapphires with mokume gane, a stone in a complimentary color can be perfectly suited to the beautiful mix of metal colors and patterns that characterize our mokume rings. Traditionally sapphires symbolize nobility, truth, sincerity, and faithfulness. They have often been associated with spirituality and connection to the celestial. Sapphire is the birthstone for September, and symbolizes 45th wedding anniversaries.

Another lesser known but amazing option for wedding jewelry is the moissanite. It rates at roughly a 9.5 on the Mohs scale. It was originally discovered by Henri Moissan while examining samples from a meteor crater in Arizona in 1893.  Most moissanite available today is lab grown, as it is made of an incredibly rare naturally occuring material, whose origins have been traced to meteorites. Moissanites have a beautiful sparkling quality, evoking the material’s origins of outer space. They are often visually indistinguishable from diamonds, but being lab grown, are sourced sustainably and are a much more affordable option. 

Understanding the Mohs Hardness Scale is invaluable for anyone involved in jewelry design or purchasing. By considering the hardness of gemstones, you can select stones that not only complement your aesthetic preferences but also suit your lifestyle and durability needs. Our mokume gane rings are made at heirloom quality, crafted with care and skill to ensure they last you this lifetime and beyond. Choosing stones that will stand the test of time like mokume gane itself will help you create jewelry that is not only stunning but also built to last, ensuring that your pieces remain cherished for years to come. If you’d like to start your design journey with us, contact us here! 

See the process behind these beautiful mokume gane snake earrings!

Mokume Gane rings are the perfect material for unique wedding rings, and a wonderful combination of symbolism and high quality craftsmanship that will stand the test of time.

The process of making mokume itself is at its’ core about creating a strong bond. Taking sheets of different precious metals such as various colored golds, palladium, and silver, and forging a connection between them with heat and pressure to create a billet. This part of the process is the foundation for the ring, requiring great skill and attention. 

Mokume Gane rings are not only beautiful but also durable. Like a traditional style band, the precious metals wear well and are made to be heirloom quality. We believe in making pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond. 

Each mokume ring is carefully handcrafted, so each is unique! This quality is perfect for wedding rings, as even within a matched set, each ring will have small details that make it one of a kind. 

Each person can choose designs to both suit their own tastes and style but also to match with features of their partner's ring, keeping a strong connection to the other. For example, choosing to have the same pattern for both rings, but each picking a different palette (or vice versa).

Finish is also important to consider, as oxidizing makes a distinct visual difference with darkened outlines. Two rings made in the same palette can even look different, if one person prefers a lighter look than the other they can choose the non oxidized option.

If both wedding rings are made in the same palette, they will be cut from the same billet, further symbolizing the bond between the two rings and the relationship between the people wearing them. If the same pattern is chosen, the rings will be matched to each other in a unique design that only you two share. 

Our mokume gane rings are each lovingly made by hand. They are beautiful, unique, and made to last and to be handed down for generations to come. 

One of the first choices you may make in designing your custom mokume gane ring is which palette you would like! There are many possibilities, each metal combination offers a different look.

Check out our gorgeous Design Guide, which shows the metals used in each of our stocked palettes. All of our mokume gane is made with only precious metals, recycled and nickel free. One of the most beautiful aspects of our mokume work is its multi-colored nature.

We thought we would group our options into a few categories to show the range of options. See what suits your and your partners taste. 

Warm toned palettes:

Red gold forward 

Flame                                             Embers

Yellow gold forward 

Spark                                                   Flare

Generally Warm

 (these palettes have both red and yellow gold, so they vary between leaning toward either color, and Blaze in particular feels very warm and vivid as it’s all gold, no silver)

       Fire                                                Firestorm

Blaze                                              Cinders

Cool/Neutral toned palettes:

Smoke                                                    Ash   

Our palettes are fire themed, as Arn feels drawn to the making process of mokume itself, using heat and fire to bond the metals. So rather than naming based on the wood grain appearance of the patterns, he draws inspiration from the forge itself.

A benefit of a ring made in mokume gane is that they are made with precious metals which inherently offer vivid and lively color combinations. As opposed to an option like damascus, which would always be only shades of gray, as damascus is made in steel. 

Mokume gane wedding rings combine the luxury and beauty of gold and silver as traditional materials, with a more unique and contemporary organic style. They are the perfect choice for the individual who wants to use precious and high quality materials that hold value and stand up to time. 

With our custom design options, you can also choose a completely custom billet if one of our stock options isn’t exactly what you’re envisioning. We can incorporate other precious metals like 18 or 22kt golds or platinum. 

Along with the metal palette, finish affects how the colors of your ring will look! 

Oxidation darkens the silver layers of the ring, and this overall gives the ring a higher contrast look. This is one of Arn’s distinctive design choices that sets him apart from other artists.

Shown here: Firestorm, satin finish (left image) vs etched & oxidized (right image)

Etching is also a consideration with finish, this is part of Arn’s signature in his work, many other mokume makers do not etch their rings, but Arn feels it adds contrast, only enhancing the patterns and bringing out small details that would be harder to see with a smooth finish. Etching also adds to the resemblance the rings have to wood, a trademark element of mokume gane. 

Once you have chosen your palette you can move on to the pattern. We will go into this in our next blog. Please sign up for our mailing list so that you can have new blogs, sales, and news delivered to your inbox. 

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When it comes to wedding bands, many men are seeking new options that stand out from the usual simple gold or platinum rings. Today’s grooms want something that reflects and allows them to express their personal style and interests. We want to introduce you to a "new" old art form called Mokume Gane. A niche that is gaining popularity, offering both an earthy aesthetic and environmental significance.

The Rise of Mokume Wedding Bands

The trend towards alternative men's wedding bands is growing, as more individuals desire a ring that tells their unique story and reflects their ideas and interests. Traditional metals such as gold and platinum possess a timeless charm, and using these precious materials to blend their classic qualities with vibrant colors and intriguing patterns offers an enhanced appeal. Mixing metals to create visually striking color palettes, and bringing old world skills and techniques to the modern age.

Artisan Craftsmanship: Mokume Gane

One of the most fascinating alternatives in the realm of unique wedding bands is Mokume Gane, a Japanese metalworking technique that produces a wood grain pattern. The term "Mokume Gane" translates to "wood grain metal," and its' intricate designs are achieved by layering and bonding different colored metals. This process creates a one-of-a-kind pattern that can be customized and offers an entire world of possibilities for design.

The Process of Mokume Gane

Crafting a Mokume Gane ring is a detailed, time-intensive process that demands both precision and skill. The metals— in our studio we use combinations of high karat golds, palladium and silver - are fused under high pressure and temperature. The bonded metals are then painstakingly manipulated to reveal the layers, resulting in a mesmerizing pattern. Each piece is as unique as a fingerprint, making it a true testament to craftsmanship.

Customization: Crafting a Personal Narrative

Custom wedding rings offer the opportunity to incorporate elements that hold personal significance. This ring, for example, was a custom ordered ring, where the pattern has been specifically designed to resemble a map of a hiking trail, a location of great sentimental importance to the couple. When so many elements - the metal combinations, the patterns, the shape of the band itself - are able to be personalized, it's possible to create truly one of a kind pieces that represent both the individual and the bond shared with a partner.

Incorporating Gemstones

While gemstones are traditionally associated with women’s rings, they are becoming increasingly popular in men's wedding bands as well. Unconventional choices like black diamonds, multicolor sapphires, diamond crystals, and more, can add a touch of color and intrigue. These stones can be set into the band or used as an accent to create a striking contrast with the metal.

Shown here are two different rings made in Arn's Guri Bori pattern, one with small diamonds that have been set flush into the ring and placed organically around the band for just a hint of sparkle. The other has a smoky gray raw diamond crystal set in his Mesa style, designed to look like the stone is in the process of emerging from the earth.

Ethical and Sustainable Choices

In today’s conscientious world, many couples are opting for wedding bands that align with their ethical and environmental values. Choosing rings made from recycled metals and other sustainably sourced materials is a way to honor those commitments.

Recycled Metals

Using recycled metals lowers the demand for newly mined materials and are an excellent option for eco-conscious consumers. These metals are refined to the same purity as newly mined metals, ensuring that the quality of the ring is uncompromised.

Fair Trade and Conflict-Free Diamonds

For those incorporating diamonds into their wedding bands, selecting fair trade and conflict-free stones is paramount. This ensures that the gemstones are sourced responsibly without exploitation or environmental harm. We also encourage the use of stones from heirloom pieces, in addition to being a great sustainable choice, using heirloom stones can add and extra sentimental touch.

Embracing Individuality in Wedding Bands

The world of men's wedding bands is evolving, offering a wealth of unique alternatives to traditional rings. With the elements of innovative materials, artisan craftsmanship like Mokume Gane, and personalized customization, there is a perfect option for every groom. As you begin this journey, consider what resonates with your personal style and values, and choose a ring that not only signifies your commitment but also tells your story.

Remember that the best choice is one that aligns with your personality, lifestyle, and values, creating a lasting symbol of your partnership.