Our Blog

A log of our process, on the web.

Princess Cut, Brilliant Cut, Emerald Cut, Marquis...Exploring the Art of Stone Cuts

Posted by on

beautiful mokume gane ring with hexagon shaped moissanite in a floating mokume bezel with a light silvery palette

Including set stones in your design is a great way to elevate and customize your ring even further as an object de art. Arn sources incredible sapphires, diamonds, and moissanites from trusted sources and skilled lapidaries.  He works with these stones specifically because they are the hardest and most durable stones, and they come in a range of beautiful colors. Arn works with each stones’ unique aspects to integrate it with your mokume gane rings’ composition, pattern and palette. 

Cuts like the round brilliant or cushion can enhance the ring's organic patterns, while angular cuts like the princess or emerald may contrast for a striking effect. This interplay of elements creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.

Stones can be cut in so many ways, each style with different aspects. Understanding the interaction between light and a gemstone is very helpful in appreciating cuts. When light enters a stone, it reflects off its internal surfaces, creating a dazzling play and range of colors known as 'fire.' A well-cut stone will guide light optimally, increasing its brilliance and fire. 

Selecting the right stone cut for a mokume ring involves considering how the cut complements the ring's design. The right stone cut transforms a gemstone, capturing light and color in its facets. Each cut unlocks the stone's potential, revealing its hidden beauty and brilliance. 

At its core, a stone's cut refers to the geometric arrangement of its facets. These facets are strategically placed to reflect and refract light, enhancing the stone's inherent qualities. 

Facets are the flat surfaces on a gemstone, and when facets are perfectly aligned, they create a kaleidoscope of colors, bringing the stone to life. The art of facet arrangement is both a science and an art, requiring skill and precision.

Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight are the universal standards for assessing diamond quality. While all are important, cut is often considered the most influential. A well-cut stone will outshine one with better color or clarity but a poor cut. 

The overall shape of the stone is an important factor to consider as well. Different shapes each interact with light in unique ways, each offering distinct visual effects. The choice of shape can also affect the stone's perceived size; for example, elongated cuts like marquise or oval can make a stone appear larger than its actual carat weight.

The Classic Round Brilliant

Mokume gane patterned engagement ring, carved to look like twisted rope, with a round diamond set into prongs at the top of the ring.

The round brilliant cut is the most popular choice for diamonds, renowned for its ability to maximize light return through its facets. 

This cut has a rich history, evolving from early diamond cuts that sought to maximize carat retention rather than brilliance. Its modern form was perfected in the 20th century with the advent of precise mathematical calculations and cutting techniques.

The design involves precise angles and facet placements to enhance light performance. The interplay of these facets allows light to be refracted and reflected multiple times, creating the signature sparkle that defines this cut.

The Brilliant cut has become a classic choice for engagement rings, visually pleasing to the eye, and generally appealing, allowing it to adapt to suit a range of different styles. Its more traditional look contrasts with the more modern and unconventional look of mokume gane, which can make for a beautifully interesting engagement ring. 

The Princess 

modern contemporary silver and palladium white metal with a square diamonds set in the flowing lines of metal

For those seeking a more angular look, the Princess cut can be the perfect choice, with its square shape, pointed corners and crisp, angular facets.

The princess cut was developed in the late 20th century, quickly gaining popularity as a more modern style. Its name evokes a sense of royalty and sophistication, appealing to those who love a blend of traditional and contemporary. The cut's sharp angles and clean lines offer a fresh take on classic elegance.

The princess cut’s design maximizes the stone's inherent sparkle and can make inclusions less visible than in other cuts. This combination of brilliance and practicality of cost contributes to its widespread appeal.

The princess cut's modern silhouette makes it versatile for various jewelry styles, from minimalist solitaire settings to elaborate multi-stone arrangements. And the straight lines of the princess cut can play well with various different mokume patterns. Contrasting against the organic and flowing style of a carved pattern like wood grain or twist, or complementing a forged pattern like vortex that has a more linear style.

The Emerald

magical feeling woodgrain patterned narrow ring with a single green rectangular stone, held in a mokume patterned bezel - a narrow strip of the same material as the main ring wrapped around the perimeter of the stone

Characterized by its rectangular shape and step-cut facets, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and elegance. The emerald cut has a long history, originally developed for cutting emeralds to reduce pressure during the cutting process and prevent fractures. Its distinctive step-cut facets were later applied to diamonds, offering a unique alternative to more common brilliant cuts. 

This cut's step-cut facets create a 'hall of mirrors' effect, and its elongated shape can make a stone appear larger, while the open facets provide a clear view into the stone's interior. The emerald cut is often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, exuding sophistication and timeless beauty. Its refined appearance suits those who value classic elegance and understated glamour.

The Marquise

ring with a solitaire stone set in prongs, featuring marquise shaped white stone, band portion is made with yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver

The Marquise cut is characterized by its elongated shape, pointed on both ends, creating an iconic and unique silhouette. The marquise cut's origins trace back to the 18th century, commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond cut that mirrored the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. 

The marquise cut's elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for maximizing carat weight. Its distinctive shape is ideal for those seeking a bold and elegant statement piece.

This cut is perfect for more eclectic and creative tastes, with its pairing of elegant curves and sharp points. It’s a striking and dramatic choice paired with mokume gane, making for beautiful engagement rings.

The Cushion

Mokume gane patterned ring with large multicolored sapphire held in prongs carved from the body of the ring. The stone is a light blue color, with a gold stripe running through the center, echoing the gold stripe running throughout the rest of the band.

With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut exudes a romantic aura. It's particularly well-suited for colored gemstones like sapphires. The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut,' has been a popular choice since the 19th century. It was the top choice for diamonds before the advent of the modern brilliant cut. Its soft, rounded edges and antique charm have ensured its enduring popularity among vintage jewelry enthusiasts.

The cushion cut especially enhances color and clarity, making it a great choice for colored stones. This is a cut anyone interested in a colored stone should consider. We love pairing beautifully colored sapphires and diamonds with mokume gane which is inherently a color based material. 

The Asscher

This is a custom made Mokume Gane ring, made by arn krebs, featuring a unique carved angled profile and a modified cathedral style setting holding the large white center diamond. The diamond is square and set diagonally to the band, and is flanked on each side by seven small bead set black diamonds running parallel to the band. It's made in our Twist pattern and an upgraded 18kt version of our Firestorm palette, the metals in it are red gold yellow gold palladium and silver

Revered for its Art Deco appeal, the Asscher cut features a square shape with deep step cuts, similar to the emerald cut but with more angular precision. This cut is known for its dramatic optical effects and timeless elegance. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters of their time. Its unique design and angular precision quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era.

The Asscher cut is also known for its distinctive deep cut, creating an intensely sparkling effect. It is a wonderful choice for those looking for a dramatic statement stone.

The Rose

salt and pepper diamond in hexagon cut with hexagon bezel in white gold mokume gane.

This cut is characterized by a domed face with triangular facets, and a flat back. It’s often associated with vintage style jewelry pieces, as it was most popular in the mid 1700s and about 1840-1900. The Rose cut became less common with the invention of the modern version of the Brilliant cut in 1900, though it had a resurgence in the 1920’s and 30’s with the Art Deco movement. Art Deco jewelry favored large gemstones, and the Rose cut lends well towards this style, as it maximizes carat weight, letting smaller carat stones appear bigger. 

The Rose cut is most often seen as a circle or oval, but is available in so many more shapes! Some Rose cut stones have a more opaque appearance, and the shallowness of the stones creates more of a subtle glimmer, rather than a dramatic sparkle. This cut is a perfect choice to suit a more classic or vintage leaning style, and offers a lot of character. It’s the perfect choice to create an heirloom mokume piece with a nod to the past. 

Selecting the Right Cut for Your Jewelry

Choosing the right cut for your jewelry is a personal decision, influenced by style, symbolism, the type of gemstone, and the intended use of the piece. 

In addition to style and symbolism, practical factors such as durability, daily use, and maintenance should be considered when selecting a cut. Some cuts, like the marquise or pear, may require protective settings to prevent damage to pointed tips. People who work with their hands and are very active might prefer a classic round stone to one that has square or pointed edges perhaps. Understanding these considerations ensures that the engagement ring remains a beautiful and enduring symbol of love.

Read more

beautiful mokume gane ring with hexagon shaped moissanite in a floating mokume bezel with a light silvery palette

Including set stones in your design is a great way to elevate and customize your ring even further as an object de art. Arn sources incredible sapphires, diamonds, and moissanites from trusted sources and skilled lapidaries.  He works with these stones specifically because they are the hardest and most durable stones, and they come in a range of beautiful colors. Arn works with each stones’ unique aspects to integrate it with your mokume gane rings’ composition, pattern and palette. 

Cuts like the round brilliant or cushion can enhance the ring's organic patterns, while angular cuts like the princess or emerald may contrast for a striking effect. This interplay of elements creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.

Stones can be cut in so many ways, each style with different aspects. Understanding the interaction between light and a gemstone is very helpful in appreciating cuts. When light enters a stone, it reflects off its internal surfaces, creating a dazzling play and range of colors known as 'fire.' A well-cut stone will guide light optimally, increasing its brilliance and fire. 

Selecting the right stone cut for a mokume ring involves considering how the cut complements the ring's design. The right stone cut transforms a gemstone, capturing light and color in its facets. Each cut unlocks the stone's potential, revealing its hidden beauty and brilliance. 

At its core, a stone's cut refers to the geometric arrangement of its facets. These facets are strategically placed to reflect and refract light, enhancing the stone's inherent qualities. 

Facets are the flat surfaces on a gemstone, and when facets are perfectly aligned, they create a kaleidoscope of colors, bringing the stone to life. The art of facet arrangement is both a science and an art, requiring skill and precision.

Cut, color, clarity, and carat weight are the universal standards for assessing diamond quality. While all are important, cut is often considered the most influential. A well-cut stone will outshine one with better color or clarity but a poor cut. 

The overall shape of the stone is an important factor to consider as well. Different shapes each interact with light in unique ways, each offering distinct visual effects. The choice of shape can also affect the stone's perceived size; for example, elongated cuts like marquise or oval can make a stone appear larger than its actual carat weight.

The Classic Round Brilliant

Mokume gane patterned engagement ring, carved to look like twisted rope, with a round diamond set into prongs at the top of the ring.

The round brilliant cut is the most popular choice for diamonds, renowned for its ability to maximize light return through its facets. 

This cut has a rich history, evolving from early diamond cuts that sought to maximize carat retention rather than brilliance. Its modern form was perfected in the 20th century with the advent of precise mathematical calculations and cutting techniques.

The design involves precise angles and facet placements to enhance light performance. The interplay of these facets allows light to be refracted and reflected multiple times, creating the signature sparkle that defines this cut.

The Brilliant cut has become a classic choice for engagement rings, visually pleasing to the eye, and generally appealing, allowing it to adapt to suit a range of different styles. Its more traditional look contrasts with the more modern and unconventional look of mokume gane, which can make for a beautifully interesting engagement ring. 

The Princess 

modern contemporary silver and palladium white metal with a square diamonds set in the flowing lines of metal

For those seeking a more angular look, the Princess cut can be the perfect choice, with its square shape, pointed corners and crisp, angular facets.

The princess cut was developed in the late 20th century, quickly gaining popularity as a more modern style. Its name evokes a sense of royalty and sophistication, appealing to those who love a blend of traditional and contemporary. The cut's sharp angles and clean lines offer a fresh take on classic elegance.

The princess cut’s design maximizes the stone's inherent sparkle and can make inclusions less visible than in other cuts. This combination of brilliance and practicality of cost contributes to its widespread appeal.

The princess cut's modern silhouette makes it versatile for various jewelry styles, from minimalist solitaire settings to elaborate multi-stone arrangements. And the straight lines of the princess cut can play well with various different mokume patterns. Contrasting against the organic and flowing style of a carved pattern like wood grain or twist, or complementing a forged pattern like vortex that has a more linear style.

The Emerald

magical feeling woodgrain patterned narrow ring with a single green rectangular stone, held in a mokume patterned bezel - a narrow strip of the same material as the main ring wrapped around the perimeter of the stone

Characterized by its rectangular shape and step-cut facets, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and elegance. The emerald cut has a long history, originally developed for cutting emeralds to reduce pressure during the cutting process and prevent fractures. Its distinctive step-cut facets were later applied to diamonds, offering a unique alternative to more common brilliant cuts. 

This cut's step-cut facets create a 'hall of mirrors' effect, and its elongated shape can make a stone appear larger, while the open facets provide a clear view into the stone's interior. The emerald cut is often associated with vintage and Art Deco styles, exuding sophistication and timeless beauty. Its refined appearance suits those who value classic elegance and understated glamour.

The Marquise

ring with a solitaire stone set in prongs, featuring marquise shaped white stone, band portion is made with yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver

The Marquise cut is characterized by its elongated shape, pointed on both ends, creating an iconic and unique silhouette. The marquise cut's origins trace back to the 18th century, commissioned by King Louis XV of France, who desired a diamond cut that mirrored the smile of his mistress, the Marquise de Pompadour. 

The marquise cut's elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size, making it a popular choice for maximizing carat weight. Its distinctive shape is ideal for those seeking a bold and elegant statement piece.

This cut is perfect for more eclectic and creative tastes, with its pairing of elegant curves and sharp points. It’s a striking and dramatic choice paired with mokume gane, making for beautiful engagement rings.

The Cushion

Mokume gane patterned ring with large multicolored sapphire held in prongs carved from the body of the ring. The stone is a light blue color, with a gold stripe running through the center, echoing the gold stripe running throughout the rest of the band.

With its rounded corners and larger facets, the cushion cut exudes a romantic aura. It's particularly well-suited for colored gemstones like sapphires. The cushion cut, also known as the 'pillow cut,' has been a popular choice since the 19th century. It was the top choice for diamonds before the advent of the modern brilliant cut. Its soft, rounded edges and antique charm have ensured its enduring popularity among vintage jewelry enthusiasts.

The cushion cut especially enhances color and clarity, making it a great choice for colored stones. This is a cut anyone interested in a colored stone should consider. We love pairing beautifully colored sapphires and diamonds with mokume gane which is inherently a color based material. 

The Asscher

This is a custom made Mokume Gane ring, made by arn krebs, featuring a unique carved angled profile and a modified cathedral style setting holding the large white center diamond. The diamond is square and set diagonally to the band, and is flanked on each side by seven small bead set black diamonds running parallel to the band. It's made in our Twist pattern and an upgraded 18kt version of our Firestorm palette, the metals in it are red gold yellow gold palladium and silver

Revered for its Art Deco appeal, the Asscher cut features a square shape with deep step cuts, similar to the emerald cut but with more angular precision. This cut is known for its dramatic optical effects and timeless elegance. The Asscher cut was developed in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers of Amsterdam, renowned diamond cutters of their time. Its unique design and angular precision quickly gained popularity during the Art Deco era.

The Asscher cut is also known for its distinctive deep cut, creating an intensely sparkling effect. It is a wonderful choice for those looking for a dramatic statement stone.

The Rose

salt and pepper diamond in hexagon cut with hexagon bezel in white gold mokume gane.

This cut is characterized by a domed face with triangular facets, and a flat back. It’s often associated with vintage style jewelry pieces, as it was most popular in the mid 1700s and about 1840-1900. The Rose cut became less common with the invention of the modern version of the Brilliant cut in 1900, though it had a resurgence in the 1920’s and 30’s with the Art Deco movement. Art Deco jewelry favored large gemstones, and the Rose cut lends well towards this style, as it maximizes carat weight, letting smaller carat stones appear bigger. 

The Rose cut is most often seen as a circle or oval, but is available in so many more shapes! Some Rose cut stones have a more opaque appearance, and the shallowness of the stones creates more of a subtle glimmer, rather than a dramatic sparkle. This cut is a perfect choice to suit a more classic or vintage leaning style, and offers a lot of character. It’s the perfect choice to create an heirloom mokume piece with a nod to the past. 

Selecting the Right Cut for Your Jewelry

Choosing the right cut for your jewelry is a personal decision, influenced by style, symbolism, the type of gemstone, and the intended use of the piece. 

In addition to style and symbolism, practical factors such as durability, daily use, and maintenance should be considered when selecting a cut. Some cuts, like the marquise or pear, may require protective settings to prevent damage to pointed tips. People who work with their hands and are very active might prefer a classic round stone to one that has square or pointed edges perhaps. Understanding these considerations ensures that the engagement ring remains a beautiful and enduring symbol of love.

Read more


Your Custom Mokume Tri Color Ring & The Beauty of Nature

Posted by Susan Freda on

Mokume is a beautiful craft dating back to 17th century Japan for use in sword-making, characterized by a woodgrain like appearance of many layers of different metals fused together to make one piece. This specialized technique of successfully forging together sheets of metal into one billet so that they are bonded and structurally sound requires great skill and years of experience as a metalsmith. 


And with this method of creating and patterning rings by hand, either through forging or carving, there is an inherent variability to how the appearance of the ring will ultimately turn out! One of the things Arn loves about mokume and the practice of making it is that not all aspects of how the final ring will look is controllable, which makes each one truly unique. We know that you love this aspect of mokume as well.  Nature never makes the same thing twice and this is one of the most striking and under-recognized aspects of what we attribute beauty to. Much like life, handmade things are unpredictable and beautiful.  


When you order your ring with us there a few paths to consider. We can help you unravel the work of choosing by walking you through the process a bit here.  We offer Custom and  Bespoke options. 


To help you visualize, here's an example. These two rings are both 7mm wide, made in our Firestorm palette (14kt red gold, 14kt yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver) Tri color ring and Twist pattern, with a low dome profile and etched and oxidized finish. There is no difference in the metals used or the proportion of the metals in the billet used for each ring, but they each have little details and differences that make them unique and distinct from one another!

 

Firestorm in particular of all of our billets has a range of variation that can be more noticeable and less controllable, as it is a four color combination, rather than two or three. As in its name, this palette is meant to be a whirlwind of color all mixed together to echo the complex and mesmerizing varieties of nature. 



Custom vs. Bespoke 

Our bespoke options are studio-approved alterations to existing AKM designs. For example you love the pattern but would like a different stock pallet that we offer ; while custom orders are designed from the ground up! This requires much more communication time as well as time at the bench, than a bespoke alteration.  


Here are a few examples of custom designs. This can include custom patterns designed by Arn, a custom billet different from our usual stock options, a custom setting for an unusual stone, the possibilities are wide open!
 

We wish you all a happy holiday season and a bright new year, and look forward to continuing to create with you!

 

Much love,

Arn Krebs Mokume 

Read more

Your Custom Mokume Tri Color Ring & The Beauty of Nature

Posted by Susan Freda on

Mokume is a beautiful craft dating back to 17th century Japan for use in sword-making, characterized by a woodgrain like appearance of many layers of different metals fused together to make one piece. This specialized technique of successfully forging together sheets of metal into one billet so that they are bonded and structurally sound requires great skill and years of experience as a metalsmith. 


And with this method of creating and patterning rings by hand, either through forging or carving, there is an inherent variability to how the appearance of the ring will ultimately turn out! One of the things Arn loves about mokume and the practice of making it is that not all aspects of how the final ring will look is controllable, which makes each one truly unique. We know that you love this aspect of mokume as well.  Nature never makes the same thing twice and this is one of the most striking and under-recognized aspects of what we attribute beauty to. Much like life, handmade things are unpredictable and beautiful.  


When you order your ring with us there a few paths to consider. We can help you unravel the work of choosing by walking you through the process a bit here.  We offer Custom and  Bespoke options. 


To help you visualize, here's an example. These two rings are both 7mm wide, made in our Firestorm palette (14kt red gold, 14kt yellow gold, palladium and sterling silver) Tri color ring and Twist pattern, with a low dome profile and etched and oxidized finish. There is no difference in the metals used or the proportion of the metals in the billet used for each ring, but they each have little details and differences that make them unique and distinct from one another!

 

Firestorm in particular of all of our billets has a range of variation that can be more noticeable and less controllable, as it is a four color combination, rather than two or three. As in its name, this palette is meant to be a whirlwind of color all mixed together to echo the complex and mesmerizing varieties of nature. 



Custom vs. Bespoke 

Our bespoke options are studio-approved alterations to existing AKM designs. For example you love the pattern but would like a different stock pallet that we offer ; while custom orders are designed from the ground up! This requires much more communication time as well as time at the bench, than a bespoke alteration.  


Here are a few examples of custom designs. This can include custom patterns designed by Arn, a custom billet different from our usual stock options, a custom setting for an unusual stone, the possibilities are wide open!
 

We wish you all a happy holiday season and a bright new year, and look forward to continuing to create with you!

 

Much love,

Arn Krebs Mokume 

Read more


Custom Mokume Gane Pattern Ring Process!

Posted by Susan Freda on

Arn just finished up this custom order, here are some behind the scenes of his process! Starting out with cutting and stacking the billet, to forming and forging the pattern.
This ring is a custom pattern request as well as a custom billet, with layers of varying thickness and a gentle wave look, resembling flowing water like a river. The billet is composed of palladium and 14kt yellow gold. 

Read more

Custom Mokume Gane Pattern Ring Process!

Posted by Susan Freda on

Arn just finished up this custom order, here are some behind the scenes of his process! Starting out with cutting and stacking the billet, to forming and forging the pattern.
This ring is a custom pattern request as well as a custom billet, with layers of varying thickness and a gentle wave look, resembling flowing water like a river. The billet is composed of palladium and 14kt yellow gold. 

Read more


The Custom Design Experience

Posted by Arn Krebs on

The Custom Design Experience


At Arn Krebs Mokume we offer the unique opportunity to customize and design an heirloom piece of jewelry within our mokume aesthetic. We are so honored to create these pieces for our customers and to work together to build truly special and one-of-a-kind pieces of work.

We have put together this overview to help you understand the steps and conversations involved in creating your completely unique piece of art, and hopefully make it a truly enjoyable process.

Read more about it here and check out some killer examples below.


Let's get started!


Consultation & Design

How long this part of the custom process takes varies widely depending on how complicated the design is. Sometimes people come to us knowing exactly what they want, while others have more of a general concept or an idea for something new. We’ll work with you to build out the details from the ground up!

When you inquire about a ring design, we start the process of your custom order with a conversation about what you are looking for. Do you know what pattern, palette, finish, and other design options you’d like, or would you like some guidance? Do you want a plain band, or are you looking to incorporate stones? If you want to use stones, what kind? How would you like them set? And don’t worry — we’ll guide you through this process!

Also during this time we’ll create quotes, Arn may make some sketches, and we will answer any questions you have.

Communication & Details

Once all the details have been decided on, you’ll place your deposit and enter our work queue. We ask for a 50% deposit to get started, with the remainder due once production is complete.

Sizing

Did you know your ring size can vary depending on the width of a band? We’ll send you a few different sizers (plain metal bands in different sizes) for a $50 fee, and you’ll have two weeks to try them out and send them back. We recommend you wear them as consistently as possible, because finger size fluctuates throughout the day and even from week to week. We want to create a ring that will fit you comfortably every day.

Gemstone Sourcing (Heirloom, Lab-grown or Natural?)

After we begin our conversations, you are welcome to send us heirloom stones if you’re reusing them from older jewelry pieces. Please let us know if you send them by mail; we'll want to keep a close eye out for them. We love being able to give these sentimental pieces a fresh breath of life by incorporating them into new designs!

We have some great suggestions of gemstones we work with, and love, on a regular basis, but Arn is also available to personally source stones for your design based on the setting style and your tastes. We have trusted stone dealers with established relationships from whom we can source lab grown or natural diamonds, sapphires, moissanites, and other stones. Understandably, this does increase project scope and turnaround time. We also welcome stones that you have sourced, but Arn must check them out first to be sure they are quality cuts and suited to the setting.

Recycling Your Metal

We’d love to be able to re-use your metal, but unfortunately we can’t properly fuse metal with unknown alloys into mokume. BUT, we can take it and melt it down and give you a credit towards your final purchase. Or, if the the metal has sentimental value, we have a few creative ways to incorporate the metal into a rail or a dot in all of our rings.

Production Time

Production time varies depending on the design and pattern. Most of our standard bands will be ready to ship in 6-8 weeks, but more complicated and customized rings can take closer to 10-11 weeks, so keep this in mind while planning! We do offer rush services for an extra fee, but it’s always best to plan as far ahead as you are able.

If you have questions that come up while you’re waiting for your ring to be completed, we are always here to answer them!

Project Completion

Once your ring is finished, we’ll be in touch to let you know that we are sending over professional images of your completed ring so that you can preview (and have a keepsake). Once you approve your order, we’ll send an invoice for your final payment and ship it out! So exciting!

Shipping

We use secure USPS Priority shipping for our US orders, which is included in your final cost, and UPS for international orders, which is an additional fee. Both are very reliable services, and we purchase insurance for all shipments. We’ll notify you when your ring ships with all tracking info, and follow-up to make sure you love your ring!

We hope this has answered your questions and shown you that designing a custom ring is really quite simple (especially when someone else is doing the hard work!). We'd love to share more and guide you through the process, so please don't hesitate to contact us by just hitting reply to this email, or clicking the button below. Lastly, check out our NEW website, it's gorgeous!

Be well!

Arn Krebs, Sue Freda &
The Arn Krebs Team

Read more

The Custom Design Experience

Posted by Arn Krebs on

The Custom Design Experience


At Arn Krebs Mokume we offer the unique opportunity to customize and design an heirloom piece of jewelry within our mokume aesthetic. We are so honored to create these pieces for our customers and to work together to build truly special and one-of-a-kind pieces of work.

We have put together this overview to help you understand the steps and conversations involved in creating your completely unique piece of art, and hopefully make it a truly enjoyable process.

Read more about it here and check out some killer examples below.


Let's get started!


Consultation & Design

How long this part of the custom process takes varies widely depending on how complicated the design is. Sometimes people come to us knowing exactly what they want, while others have more of a general concept or an idea for something new. We’ll work with you to build out the details from the ground up!

When you inquire about a ring design, we start the process of your custom order with a conversation about what you are looking for. Do you know what pattern, palette, finish, and other design options you’d like, or would you like some guidance? Do you want a plain band, or are you looking to incorporate stones? If you want to use stones, what kind? How would you like them set? And don’t worry — we’ll guide you through this process!

Also during this time we’ll create quotes, Arn may make some sketches, and we will answer any questions you have.

Communication & Details

Once all the details have been decided on, you’ll place your deposit and enter our work queue. We ask for a 50% deposit to get started, with the remainder due once production is complete.

Sizing

Did you know your ring size can vary depending on the width of a band? We’ll send you a few different sizers (plain metal bands in different sizes) for a $50 fee, and you’ll have two weeks to try them out and send them back. We recommend you wear them as consistently as possible, because finger size fluctuates throughout the day and even from week to week. We want to create a ring that will fit you comfortably every day.

Gemstone Sourcing (Heirloom, Lab-grown or Natural?)

After we begin our conversations, you are welcome to send us heirloom stones if you’re reusing them from older jewelry pieces. Please let us know if you send them by mail; we'll want to keep a close eye out for them. We love being able to give these sentimental pieces a fresh breath of life by incorporating them into new designs!

We have some great suggestions of gemstones we work with, and love, on a regular basis, but Arn is also available to personally source stones for your design based on the setting style and your tastes. We have trusted stone dealers with established relationships from whom we can source lab grown or natural diamonds, sapphires, moissanites, and other stones. Understandably, this does increase project scope and turnaround time. We also welcome stones that you have sourced, but Arn must check them out first to be sure they are quality cuts and suited to the setting.

Recycling Your Metal

We’d love to be able to re-use your metal, but unfortunately we can’t properly fuse metal with unknown alloys into mokume. BUT, we can take it and melt it down and give you a credit towards your final purchase. Or, if the the metal has sentimental value, we have a few creative ways to incorporate the metal into a rail or a dot in all of our rings.

Production Time

Production time varies depending on the design and pattern. Most of our standard bands will be ready to ship in 6-8 weeks, but more complicated and customized rings can take closer to 10-11 weeks, so keep this in mind while planning! We do offer rush services for an extra fee, but it’s always best to plan as far ahead as you are able.

If you have questions that come up while you’re waiting for your ring to be completed, we are always here to answer them!

Project Completion

Once your ring is finished, we’ll be in touch to let you know that we are sending over professional images of your completed ring so that you can preview (and have a keepsake). Once you approve your order, we’ll send an invoice for your final payment and ship it out! So exciting!

Shipping

We use secure USPS Priority shipping for our US orders, which is included in your final cost, and UPS for international orders, which is an additional fee. Both are very reliable services, and we purchase insurance for all shipments. We’ll notify you when your ring ships with all tracking info, and follow-up to make sure you love your ring!

We hope this has answered your questions and shown you that designing a custom ring is really quite simple (especially when someone else is doing the hard work!). We'd love to share more and guide you through the process, so please don't hesitate to contact us by just hitting reply to this email, or clicking the button below. Lastly, check out our NEW website, it's gorgeous!

Be well!

Arn Krebs, Sue Freda &
The Arn Krebs Team

Read more


To Oxidize or Not to Oxidize Your Mokume Gane Ring?

Posted by Arn Krebs on

We offer a few different options for the finish of your mokume gane ring, and each offers a different look and quality. One of these options is oxidation, where the silver layers in a ring are darkened to increase the contrast between the metal colors! It’s great for those who want a bold, high contrast look, and makes the patterning stand out more.

Read more

To Oxidize or Not to Oxidize Your Mokume Gane Ring?

Posted by Susan Freda on

We offer a few different options for the finish of your mokume gane ring, and each offers a different look and quality. One of these options is oxidation, where the silver layers in a ring are darkened to increase the contrast between the metal colors! It’s great for those who want a bold, high contrast look, and makes the patterning stand out more.

Read more